2023_30/5

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    DESIGN A BRA SIZING SYSTEM FOR VIETNAMESE WOMEN BASED ON 3D SCAN DATA
    (Technical University of Liberec, ) NGUYEN, THANH TUNG; TRAN, THI MINH KIEU; PENG, LI-HSUN; HOANG, SY TUAN; Technická univerzita v Liberci
    This study focuses on the body shape of Vietnamese women, collected from large-scale measurement data, to establish a bra size system for mature Vietnamese women aged 18 to 55. Measurement data was collected from 1100 subjects using a 3D scanner. During the data collecting process, 18 measurements at the chest area were classified and used for the research and analysis. Data analysis is performed by the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) method and Numerical Analysis. Mean and median values are used to understand the central tendency of sizing charts. Standard deviation is leveraged to derive size categories, intervals and separate the outliers. Two size-matching solutions are implemented to find the optimal sizing system. The result found a 26 sizes bra system which is a combination of 5 band sizes and 6 cup sizes, with a response rate of 98.27% based on the primary dimensions of bust girth and underbust girth. The study's results were compared with the bra size systems of some countries in Asia and around the world, showing that differences in body shape have led to differences in the systems. the number of sizes. The ultimate goal of this research is to systematically establish a data database with local characteristics and significance that will contribute to sustainable development in academic research, industrial production, application, commercial activities, and service design in the future. The results of this study are meaningful for bra manufacturers in the Vietnamese market and for women in selecting suitable bras for their somatotype.
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    RESEARCH OF VARIABLE PARAMETERS OF NEEDLE THREAD TAKE-UP MECHANISMS AND DEVELOPMENT OF RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ADJUSTING MULTI-THREAD CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINES
    (Technical University of Liberec, ) MANOILENKO, OLEKSANDR; НOROBETC, VASYL; DVORZHAK, VOLODYMYR; KOVALOV, YURII; KNIAZIEV, ILLIA; SHKVYRA, VOLODYMYR; Technická univerzita v Liberci
    The purpose of this research is to develop specific recommendations for optimizing the adjustment of the thread take-up mechanisms of typical chain stitch sewing machines based on the analysis of the thread take-up process. These recommendations are intended to help manufacturers and machine operators achieve maximum productivity and increased product quality, while taking into account the specific technological parameters of the operations performed on these machines. The research is aimed at increasing the efficiency of the sewing process, reducing machine setup time, and improving the overall result of the technological process in the sewing industry. The research uses an analytical method of determining and investigating functions of the actual thread take-up as the instantaneous sum of sections of the take-up contour when adjustable parameters of the mechanisms are changed, taking into account accepted assumptions. In the research, an analytical method was used to determine functions of the actual thread take-up as the instantaneous sum of sections of the take-up contour, taking into account the change in regulated parameters of the mechanisms. At the same time, assumptions were made that has simplified analysis and modelling of this process with sufficient accuracy of calculation results. The scientific novelty of this research lies in discovery of new relationships and establishment of regularities that determine influence of adjustable parameters on the nature and scope of the thread take-up function in chain stitch machines. Further re-search in this area can be aimed to the development of more efficient methods of adjustment and optimization of needle thread take-up mechanisms, as well as to the implementation of new technologies in pro-duction to improve productivity and quality of sewing operations. The obtained results became basis for the development of nomograms for determining the optimal values of adjustable parameters for needle thread take-up mechanisms of typical flat chain stitch machines, taking into account technological parameters of specific operations. These nomograms allow operators and manufacturers of sewing machines significantly simplify adjustment of these mechanisms when using operational equipment or when switching to other technological operations. The obtained results can be applied directly in production during adjustment or repairing of specified ma-chines to increase their productivity by reducing adjustment time and for improving the quality of the technological process.
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    USAGE OF BIOSURFACTANTS AS ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLY DETERGENTS FOR TEXTILE PRODUCTS CLEANING
    (Technical University of Liberec, ) PARASKA, OLGA; SYNYUK, OLEH; RADEK, NORBERT; ZOLOTENKO, ELLA; MYKHAYLOVSKIY, YURIY; Technická univerzita v Liberci
    The paper is devoted to the resource-saving technologies of cleaning the textiles in the aquatic environment. As a resource-saving technology the use of biosurfactant compositions replacing traditional detergents was chosen. These technologies are characterized by high quality cleaning the textile garments, reduced time of operations, reduction of the costs of chemicals and energy, improvement of environmental safety of the process and and also allow to extend the shelf life of products. Resource-saving cleaning technologies (washing, aqua cleaning) have been improved and recommendations for their application have been developed, considering changes in the operational properties of new generation textiles, which will extend the service life of new generation textiles, save operational properties, enable their eco-recycling (reuse) and reduce the impact on the environment and human health through the use of biosurfactant compositions. Innovative compositions of biosurfactants with a synergistic effect in micelle formation were elaborated. Steric factor associated with the rational packaging of biosurfactants molecules in mixed micelles, as well as the possibility of forming micelles of optimal composition can influence synergistic effect. The use of elaborated compositions of biosurfactants in washing processes offers several environmental and health advantages. The complex research of influencing parameters of chemical-technological processes and properties of washing compositions on the basis of correlations the products of new generation were developed that provides improvement of quality of removal of contaminations from textiles and process safety. It is proved that the application of the developed resource-saving technologies saves 10 liters of water per cleaning cycle, 0.0348 kWh of electricity, and 0.142 hours of working time.
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    IMPROVEMENT OF FLAME RETARDANT AND ANTIBACTERIAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON-POLYESTER BLEND FABRICS
    (Technical University of Liberec, ) HOROKHOV, IHOR; KULISH, IRINA; ASAULYUK, TATYANA; SARIBYEKOVA, YULIA; SEMESHKO, OLGA; MYASNYKOV, SERGEY; Technická univerzita v Liberci
    The fire retardant and antibacterial characteristics of cotton-polyester blend fabric have been improved. A composition has been developed for complex finishing of fabric using a phosphorus-containing substance on a biological basis, which, due to its high phosphorus content, can provide a fire-retardant function to textile material, as well as increase its antimicrobial properties. The thermal characteristics of treated textile materials have been studied and it has been established that the presence of phytic acid at the initial stage of destruction shifts the temperature towards lower values due to the activation of phytic acid degradation before the decomposition of the main substrate. The maximum temperature at which the final destruction of the cotton-polyester fabric occurs shifts to higher temperatures from 507°C for the untreated fabric to 565°C for the treated fabric, and the presence of dry residue increases by more than 2.5 times, which proves an increase in the heat resistance of the textile material. The length of the damaged area in the vertical combustion test was 6.5 cm, and the absence of drop formation of the polyester component was also noted, which eliminates the potential destructive effect due to the possible formation of additional fire areas. An increase in fabric antimicrobial activity is confirmed by a zone of inhibition of 2 – 4 mm around the sample using the diffusion method with gram-positive bacteria Staphylococcus pyogenes, as well as a pronounced growth inhibition of microorganisms around fabric samples examined by the method of inoculation of microflora from the environment. Treatment with the studied composition improves washing resistance and does not impair the mechanical properties of the textile material by increasing the degree of crosslinking of the polymer components used in the finishing composition.
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    BUILDING DATABASE IN BALANCING KNITTED GARMENT LINES SOFTWARE IN INDUSTRY
    (Technical University of Liberec, ) THAO, PHAN THANH; PHAN, DUY-NAM; Technická univerzita v Liberci
    The garment industry is one of the key industries contributing to the economic growth of Vietnam. Industry 4.0 has significantly altered the operational procedures of conventional enterprises. The implementation of technological, digital, and artificial intelligence applications has increased the global efficacy of corporate governance. To successfully assimilate into the regional and global economies, Vietnamese businesses must enhance their management capabilities and maximize both the quantity and quality of their products. In order to achieve this objective, the authors have conducted research to develop a database of sewing line balancing implemented in Assembly Line Balancing software for two common knitted products, namely Polo- Shirts, and T-Shirts. School of Textile-Leather and Fashion, Hanoi University of Science and Technology (HUST) methods compared and evaluated this result of sewing line balancing of 2 Polo-Shirt and T-Shirt products according to the manual, software, and actual calculation method at 3 enterprises: Star Fashion Company Ltd., Regent Garment Factory Ltd., and Hanoi General Textile Garment Joint Stock Company (Hanosimex). Since then, we have completed the sewing line balancing database for Polo-Shirt and T-Shirt products to row sewing lines for cases in which the path of semi-finished products is both straight and zigzag. The findings of this study can be applied to group conjugation lines and suspended lines transporting semifinished goods. The database has been constructed meticulously and standardized to ensure the diversity, richness, and universality of all product technology structure options applicable to garment companies. The database is utilized in the Assembly Line Balancing software developed by the research team; this is an application-oriented research product that will transfer technology to garment enterprises producing knitwear, assisting them in overcoming current challenges. Reasonable production line layout contributes to optimizing existing production conditions, increasing labor productivity and the efficiency of production organization, and laying the groundwork for the application of digital technology.