RESEARCH ON SHAPE MEMORY PROPERTIES OF WOOL YARN AND WOOL KNITTED FABRIC AFTER DESCALING TREATMENT BY ULTRASONIC

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2026
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Wool is one of the most widely used proteinic material for textile products due to its outstanding desirable properties including excellent thermal insulation, breathability, flame retardancy and comfort properties. Moreover, wool has shape memory capability, so it is good candidate for thermo-regulating clothes. However, wool fibers have a surface structure of overlapping cuticle cells known as scales which significantly affect fiber properties. This paper investigated the appearance, strength, extension and the shape memory behavior of the wool yarn and also the wool rib knitted fabric before and after descaling its cuticle cells using calcium carbonate nano powder (CCNP) powder with the concentration of 2 g/l, 5 g/l, and 10g/l in ultrasonic bath. The shape memory behavior of wool yarn, and rib knitted fabric were examined by changing between the warm-humid (temperature of 28°C; humidity of 90%) and the cold-dry condition (temperature of 8oC; humidity of 20%). The results showed that the increase of CCNP concentration improved the descaling effect, which resulted in less sharp morphology of scales on the wool fiber surface. Wool yarn breaking strength and elongation tended to increase due to the increase of CCNP concentration, while the value of CV (%) decreased. Moreover, the results demonstrated that the length of wool yarn did not change much for both original and treated yarns while descaled fabric possessed higher shape memory ability than untreated fabric, especially in vertical direction with 100 % of the original value, and the horizontal shape memory ability was in range of 93.8 % to 97.6 %.
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